DAY FIVE… 39.15 miles (63.00 km)
After miles of unmetalled roads, deeply rutted and a long stretch where we had to walk through deep sand, Tim finally informs me that we are in the heart of the Chambal. The Chambal is an area notorious for bandits, at least in the past. ‘Phoolan Devi, the Bandit Queen’ film was set in this area. If you’ve seen it, you will know why I was nervous. Luckily no bandits in sight. The area itself is characterised by deep sandy ravines perfect for making a quick getaway.
However, most people seemed to be engaged in the daily task of making their cow dung patties, and gathering in the barley crop. Some, especially in the early morning could be seen with the tell-tale plastic bottle in hand, heading out to a quiet spot in the fields for their morning ablutions.
Finally, around 1pm we reached the National Highway, but the heat was up, making cycling much more arduous. The National Highway does not have the shade offered by the trees lining the smaller roads, nor the fascination of village humdrum life, and the concentration turned from actually remaining on the bike, to trying to steer clear of the crazy and persistent attempts by motorcyclists to come along side us and take videos of us riding along.
We had to resort to drinking mango Frutti (for energy) and pouring water over our heads (cooling) in order to get to our destination. The final stretch involved crazy city cycling, a dare devil, half crazed attempt to cycle, despite being accosted from all directions, and fast by lots of other vehicles and cows. It has to be treated like a meditation, relaxing totally but being utterly alert at the same time.
