DAY TWENTY ONE… 48.47 miles (78.0 km)
A sad and fond goodbye to Suzy and Anna at 6am as they set off on another safari adventure, before taking an overnight train back to Delhi. And we set off on an adventure on our own, into the wilds of relatively unknown India. We’ve stashed some £50.00 notes up our bike seat stems for emergencies should the worst happen, and hidden most of our cash and cards in our luggage. The idea, maybe a bit naïve is, if held up by dacoits, we give our purses with some money in, but retain a good proportion of our cash.

We set off on a virtually deserted road through jungle, vigilant for snakes, after yesterday’s experience. Tim has warned me, it’s uphill, and, yes it was, but the gradient was gentle. Tomorrow the climb is not so fun. Up 1,000 metres and 65 miles long.


The shade of the trees kept us cool till around 11 or 12 when they thinned out and more habitation was in evidence.

Shahdol is another town with little to recommend it. We headed for the best hotel and attempted to book in. Not all was straight forward though. Instead of us checking in, it seemed that they were checking us. Were we married? Yes, of course, see the rings?
But, they enquire, why is your surname different?
Oh, Tim says quickly, she’s a doctor and she has kept her name.
Conversation turns to our status. Are we illegal immigrants? Where is our visa?
This takes ages, passport is turned upside down, scrutinised, pages turned.
Eventually all seems in order and we are shown a room.
