DAY FIVE… 39.60 miles (63.73 km)

Porbandar has actually nothing to recommend it, except that it was the birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi. It’s a filthy town. The streets are covered with litter, dog shit and cow dung. It has far more than its quota of dogs. Early morning they roam in packs cavorting in the streets. Tim and I had to resort to mantra chanting to try and avert the danger of attack. In fact one pack (about 7 dogs), did rush at us and chase, barking.

India Cycle Touring Gujarat
The cool morning just after sunrise

8.25 am... We’re back on the dual carriageway today. Hopefully the ride will be shorter, as yesterday’s ride left me with a feeling of nausea and massive heat rashes. We’ve stopped for a chai (2nd one) and have learnt from yesterday and brought poha for breakfast.

Madhavpur… we have arrived! A little town strung out along the coast and unbelievably busy. Where are the quiet places? 

Cycling was so hot that every chance we got we threw water over our heads and soaked our clothes. Even so, the cooling effect was short lived. Today’s ride was busy and hot as ever with the crazy wrong direction driving techniques !

India Cycle Touring Gujarat
The shadeless four lane highway in the middle of the day

For breakfast we found samosas ! Amazing ! Then it was a case of trying to keep going, as the day got hotter and hotter. Our destination hotel, an ‘eco’ hotel (at exorbitant price), was fully booked, so we cycled to the only other hotel in town. It was absolutely bursting with a massive wedding party, but thankfully, the guests dispersed and did not stay to party.

We visited the Osho Ashram (Bhagwan Shree Rajneesh), the original ashram had become derelict, now just housing the remains of some of his followers. A newer ashram had been built, a possible option for accommodation, in extremis. Luckily, not required.

We watched sunset on the beach as grey egret searched for small crustaceans to eat. The sun goes down very fast here and is quickly replaced by a silvery sliver of moon.

India Cycle Touring Gujarat
Hungry egrets looking for a crustacean take-away supper