DAY ELEVEN… 38.94 miles (62.67 km)
It was up, up, up today. Hard to keep going as the heat got up, and having achieved the summit, along some dry, hot and bumpy path, we hit the main road hoping to get a lift to our destination. It didn’t look promising at all, but a lady beckoned us into her home, where her daughter and grandchildren were seated, together with a very vocal tom cat. She offered us food and delicious chaach (buttermilk drink). We declined the food, but the chaach was so refreshing.
Hospitality and kindness here are truly amazing.
Then, she miraculously found a driver (pick-up truck) to take us the last bit of the way (only 20kms.) Again, another, life in your hands, sort of drive.
Today on the road, Tim declined yet another offer of chai from a passing motorcyclist. Some miles down the road the man had appeared waving by the side of the road. Tim waved back & continued riding, but the man, with his wife too, were having none of it. Picking up the teapot of chai and some glasses, they jumped onto their trusty motorbike and sped after us, flagging us down on the road! Well, we really couldn’t refuse chai then !
We arrived at our destination and found an indifferent hotel for the night. It is cheap, rather grubby but is a spacious enough room, all for 945Rs a night (£10.00). There is no hot water and the sliding lock-less “balcony” French doors open to a massive drop on to the street, two floors below…. a health and safety nightmare, but if you are careful not to step out, the room s fine for the night.
8.30pm…. Just returned from an evening out at Lala Raghuvanshi’s Original Paratha House. A busy & packed, eat-all-you-can roadside restaurant, all for only £1.50, or whatever the sinking exchange rate makes it now. I had no idea what the eager waiters were loading onto my plate, but it seemed a bargain. No ill effects either.
Tim thought it was cooler today but I can’t say I felt it. People here insist it is winter now. Don’t want to even contemplate what summer is like.